Seven jewelry brands to try beyond Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood is not the only route to punk, gothic or surreal jewelry. These seven brands move through body modification, glam rock, fantasy weapons and playful fine jewelry. Some are easy to wear every day; others can take over an entire outfit.

For earwear that sits between jewelry and hardware, see how to style cyberpunk ear cuffs and open-ear audio jewelry.

1. FANGOPHILIA

FANGOPHILIA is the Japanese silver-accessory brand of Tarou Hanabusa, a licensed dentist who began making custom jewelry in 2011. His dental training shaped the brand’s casting methods and its obsession with teeth, fingers, faces and other parts of the body.

The result feels like jewelry pulled directly from the skin. Mouthpieces, nail armor and molded silver forms can look clinical, fetishistic and confrontational at the same time. If conventional rings and necklaces feel too safe, this is the place to start.

2. Justine Clenquet

Justine Clenquet launched her namesake label in 2010 while studying at École Duperré. The brand is based in northern France, with pieces made between Lille and Paris. Punk and piercing culture run through the collection, but the jewelry stays polished enough for daily wear.

The best designs mix chains, pearls, safety-pin shapes and mismatched earrings without becoming costume jewelry. Many pieces are adjustable or modular, so the same item can shift with the outfit. It is an easy recommendation for anyone who wants punk energy without losing refinement.

3. Regalrose

Regalrose is a UK jewelry label with a broad gothic vocabulary: coffins, crosses, snakes, celestial symbols and dark romantic details. Its current range uses several materials and finishes, including titanium, sterling silver, gold vermeil and plated metals. Not every design comes in both gold and silver, so it is worth checking the individual product details.

This is one of the most approachable options on the list. The pieces make a visible statement, but many still sit comfortably inside an everyday wardrobe. The coffin and death-inspired designs are especially good.

4. Harlot Hands

Harlot Hands is a New York-based jewelry project created by Jing Feng, whose background is in fine art. The brand draws from mythology, fantasy and the supernatural, turning chimeric butterflies, weapon-like forms and pseudo-relics into wearable objects.

These pieces feel like artifacts from a private mythology. They are feminine without being sweet and fantastical without looking generic. The weapon forms are the strongest part of the collection.

5. Always Romantic

Reliable public information on Always Romantic is limited. The original post presents it as a Chinese avant-garde jewelry label and highlights the Rose Ashes and Realm of Strange Dreams collections.

The pictured work is enough to explain the appeal: orbital ear shapes, blade-like rings and long silver structures that hang away from the body. Both collections look incredible. This is one to judge by the objects themselves while checking current materials, pricing and availability directly with the seller.

6. Wilhelmina Garcia

Founded in 2012 and designed in Barcelona, Wilhelmina Garcia is led by founder and creative director Rocio Canals. The brand treats Wilhelmina Garcia as a whimsical persona and builds a colorful world around travel, magic and escape.

Its jewelry is more playful than aggressive, with enamel, vivid color and storybook motifs softening the metalwork. It is a good choice when an alternative outfit needs something strange and charming rather than severe.

7. Maria Black

Maria Black was established in Copenhagen in 2010 by designer and goldsmith Maria Black. Her label combines sculptural design with functional jewelry and traditional craft. The current collection uses recycled 14-karat gold and sterling silver, along with lab-grown diamonds.

The shapes are clean, but never boring. Ear cuffs, asymmetric earrings and modular forms make the brand especially useful for building a layered ear stack. Choose Maria Black when you want experimentation to look sharp and controlled.

Sources

• Japanese Silver Accessories Brand FANGOPHILIA - TOKION, December 7, 2020
• À propos - Justine Clenquet, accessed July 16, 2026
• Frequently Asked Questions - Regalrose, accessed July 16, 2026
• About - Harlot Hands, accessed July 16, 2026
• About Us - Wilhelmina Garcia, accessed July 16, 2026
• About Maria Black - Maria Black, accessed July 16, 2026